Ultra Repair Cream Intense Hydration, Vanilla Citron (2018 formulation)

These describe what an ingredient is, not whether it is a problem. The stance marks above are the ratings; these are not.

• fragrance materialCitrus Limon Peel Oil

  • Citrus Limon Peel Oil: A citrus peel oil the EU names on its own account as a fragrance substance to be declared on the label. EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, Annex III entry 353, inserted by Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545: a fragrance substance whose presence must be indicated in the list of ingredients above 0,001% in leave-on and 0,01% in rinse-off products. It is declarable in its OWN right, not by way of any component it carries. The name to look for on a label is "Citrus Limon Peel Oil". The duty applies now. Transition footnote (40) lets stock that does not comply, lawfully placed on the Union market before the 31 July 2026 cut-off, be made available until 31 July 2028.

• rich occlusiveDimethicone

  • Dimethicone: A silicone that forms a film on the surface of the skin without an oily feel. FDA OTC skin protectant monograph, 21 CFR 347.10(g), lists dimethicone as a skin protectant at 1 to 30%.

• humectantGlycerin

  • Glycerin: A humectant, and one of the two ingredients a comparison of moisturiser components found made a significant difference to skin hydration. FDA OTC skin protectant monograph, 21 CFR 347.10(h), lists glycerin as a skin protectant at 20 to 45%. On the humectant half: Jeong CB, Han JY, Cho JC, Suh KD, Nam GW, "Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components", Int J Cosmet Sci 2013;35(4):402-410, DOI 10.1111/ics.12059, PMID 23621673, found that "glycerine and urea showed significant skin hydration effects compared with other humectants".

• barrier lipidCeramide-3

  • Ceramide-3: One of the lipid families the skin barrier is actually built from. Feingold KR and Elias PM, "The role of ceramides in the disruption of the cutaneous permeability barrier, a common manifestation of skin disorders", J Lipid Res 2024;65(8):100593, DOI 10.1016/j.jlr.2024.100593, open access: the barrier lipid matrix "by weight is approximately 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids".

• soothingColloidal Oatmeal, Allantoin

  • Colloidal Oatmeal: One of the ingredients the FDA recognises by name as an over-the-counter skin protectant for irritation and itching. FDA OTC skin protectant monograph, 21 CFR 347.10(f): "Colloidal oatmeal, 0.007 percent minimum; 0.003 percent minimum in combination with mineral oil in accordance with 347.20(a)(4)."; section 347.50(b)(4) gives it the indication "temporarily protects and helps relieve minor skin irritation and itching due to:" followed by at least one of rashes, eczema, poison ivy/oak/sumac, or insect bites. The indication is conditional on naming a cause; the same opening phrase also serves sodium bicarbonate at (b)(5), so the phrase alone does not identify oatmeal.
  • Allantoin: A skin protectant used at low levels in products aimed at irritated skin. FDA OTC skin protectant monograph, 21 CFR 347.10(a), lists allantoin as a skin-protectant active at 0,5 to 2%. Its labelled indications are 21 CFR 347.50(b)(1), "temporarily protects minor: cuts, scrapes, burns", and (b)(2), which covers chafed, chapped or cracked skin. The monograph does not give it the "minor skin irritation and itching" wording; that one belongs to colloidal oatmeal, sodium bicarbonate and one combination, and to topical starch without the itching half.