Beauty, Herbal Cleansing Shower Jelly, Blackberry & Lemongrass

These describe what an ingredient is, not whether it is a problem. The stance marks above are the ratings; these are not.

• common irritantSODIUM LAURYL SULFATE, PROPYLENE GLYCOL

  • SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE: A strong cleansing agent used as the reference irritant in skin-irritation testing. OECD Test Guideline 439 (in vitro skin irritation, reconstructed human epidermis), paragraph 24: "The suggested PC is 5% aqueous SDS", sodium dodecyl sulphate, the same substance as sodium lauryl sulfate, CAS 151-21-3.
  • PROPYLENE GLYCOL: A solvent that shows up in patch-test clinics, more often as irritation than as allergy. American Contact Dermatitis Society, Allergen of the Year 2018 (Jacob SE, Scheman A, McGowan MA, Dermatitis 2018;29(1):3-5).

• fragrance materialHEXYL CINNAMAL, ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE

  • HEXYL CINNAMAL: A jasmine-like fragrance component named separately on the label. EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, Annex III entry 87: a fragrance substance whose presence must be indicated in the list of ingredients above 0,001% in leave-on and 0,01% in rinse-off products, because of established contact-allergy risk.
  • ALPHA-ISOMETHYL IONONE: A powdery violet fragrance component named separately on the label. EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009, Annex III entry 90: a fragrance substance whose presence must be indicated in the list of ingredients above 0,001% in leave-on and 0,01% in rinse-off products, because of established contact-allergy risk.

• undeclared fragrance blendFRAGRANCE

  • FRAGRANCE: A blend the label does not itemize, so what is in it cannot be read from the ingredient list. EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 permits the collective term "parfum"; the SCCS Opinion on Fragrance Allergens (SCCS/1459/11) reviews the contact-allergy evidence for the substances it can contain.

• retinoidRETINYL PALMITATE

  • RETINYL PALMITATE: A gentler vitamin A ester that the skin converts to retinol. SCCS Opinion on Vitamin A (Retinol, Retinyl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate), SCCS/1576/16, which assesses retinyl palmitate by name; EU Regulation (EC) 1223/2009 Annex III entry 376 covers it in the same group as retinol.

• humectantGLYCERIN, SODIUM PCA

  • GLYCERIN: A humectant, and one of the two ingredients a comparison of moisturiser components found made a significant difference to skin hydration. FDA OTC skin protectant monograph, 21 CFR 347.10(h), lists glycerin as a skin protectant at 20 to 45%. On the humectant half: Jeong CB, Han JY, Cho JC, Suh KD, Nam GW, "Analysis of electrical property changes of skin by oil-in-water emulsion components", Int J Cosmet Sci 2013;35(4):402-410, DOI 10.1111/ics.12059, PMID 23621673, found that "glycerine and urea showed significant skin hydration effects compared with other humectants".
  • SODIUM PCA: The salt of PCA, one of the water-holding substances the outer layer of skin makes for itself. Dörner C, Steinbinder J, Sachslehner AP, Sukseree S, Eckhart L, "Amino Acid Metabolism of the Skin: Control by Specific Enzymes and Contribution to Protective Functions", Metabolites 2025;15(9):601, DOI 10.3390/metabo15090601, open access, section "Glutamine Is Converted to Pyrrolidone Carboxylic Acid, a Component of the NMF": "pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), also known as pyroglutamic acid or 5-oxoproline, accumulates in the stratum corneum."